Steel Framed Building Interior Finishing Guide

Some guidance on the internal make-up and finishing of your Steel Framed Garden Room.

Before you begin your interior make-up, you should consider a few things.

Firstly, if you are wanting electrics/plumbing included, such as sockets, lights, or pipes for a radiator - you should get the works ready to feed through your interior wall make up. You will need to secure your interior wall make-up around your cables as required (take care not to screw into your cable when securing your plasterboard).

Your frames will have multiple service holes pre-drilled for you exactly for this purpose, as well as some grommets to protect the cables from rough steel edges.

Secondly, this stage must be completed once you have built the structure of your Steel Framed Garden Building, & completed the exterior finishing & Elevate EPDM flat roof installation.

Step 1: From the inside, cut to size & install your mineral based insulation. We strongly advise Rockwool RAW 45 for thermal efficiency & sound deadening. Use PPE!

Note that your frame arms a 'c' shaped, & your insulation will need to fill the gap, so take care measuring & to have a good fit.

You should only need to insulate your walls, as you should have an Elevate EPDM Warm Roof. If for some reason you were unable to have a warm roof due to height restrictions, you can install this to the roof interior also, but will need to consider a vapour barrier and/or ventilation.

Step 2: You now need to install your vapour control layer, which will stop any potential condensation build-up breaching your plasterboard. 

There is the option of foil-backed plasterboard instead of this method (or both!), yet a vapour control layer is generally better performing in our opinion.

Use galvanised Tacs or other appropriate fastenings to secure your vapour control layer to your beams. 

Note, if you have a cold system make-up (or no insulation), you will likely need to fit a vapour control layer on your roof beams also.

Step 3: You can now install your interior layer of plasterboard (or foil backed plasterboard as a form of vapour control).

Use similar principles as your other boards, staggering joints where possible, using appropriately spaced fixings & running your boards across the beams - not parallel.

Before you skim your plasterboard, you should now install any backboxes for your sockets, a few mm proud of your plasterboard - so the thickness of your skim will provide a neat flush finish.

Then secure any corner beads & scrim tape to your joints, & 2-coat skim your plasterboard to a high quality finish.

Note: Do not allow your plasterboard to touch your floor, which could result in moisture retention. We advise resting your base layer on 10mm temporary packers.

Step 4: You are now ready to decorate your new space as your desire!

We advise waiting for your skim to completely dry, then applying a mist-coat of paint to your bare plaster to seal it.

Additionally, before you lay any flooring, you should check how level your concrete is. Assuming you follow the correct steps, you should be good. However, there is always the option to use a self levelling compound if needed.

You can then complete any electrics/plumbing as well all other remaining dΓ©cor. This can include:

You floor covering, such as tiles or Luxury Vinyl Laminate (LVT); Your skirting board & architrave of choice, as well as any other joinery such as shelving, base & wall units; Your remaining paint dΓ©cor, wall panelling or coving.

Let your imagination run wild!